Principles of manual milling. Work manual milling to adjust the depth of milling

Expand the functionality of the manual power tool, make it use more comfortable, comfortable and safely allowed tools for manual milling. Serial models of such devices are quite expensive, but you can save on their acquisition and make fixtures for equipping a tree milling with your own hands.

Various kinds of fixtures can make a truly universal tool from a manual milling

The main task is to solve the fixtures for the milling maker is that the tool is located in relation to the surface being processed in the required spatial position. Some of the most commonly used machines for milling machines are included in the standard package of such equipment. The same models that have a highly specialized appointment are purchased separately or manufactured by their own hands. In this case, many fixtures for a milling mill in a tree such a design that they do not represent any particular problems. For homemade devices for manual milling, it is not even necessary for drawings - there will be quite enough of their drawings.

Among the fixtures for a milling mill in a tree that can be made and do it yourself, there are a number of popular models. Consider them in more detail.

Parallel focus for performing direct and curly cuts

To ensure the stability of the milling processing during the treatment of narrow surfaces can be without special devices. Decide such a task using two boards that are attached on both sides of the treated product in such a way as to form with the surface on which the groove is performed, one plane. The mill itself when using such technological reception is positioned using a parallel stop.

There are different types of hand mills, however, the most used and universal can be called a manual submersible milling mill, about work which is written below. Plastic, perfect on its aesthetic wood and universal manual milling mill. This combination makes it possible to get products of almost any forms - from the simplest in the form of direct planes, to the most complex, more likely the works of art than utilitarian things. The work of a manual milling wood is an opportunity to fully enjoy creativity, creating original, exclusive products.

Types of work performed by a mill

All operations that are carried out using a manual milling can be divided into several categories.

Milling grooves, grooves, quarters And other recesses in the workpiece, which can be located both along and across the layers, be open (exit on the edge) or closed. For some exceptions, these forms perform certain structural functions - the entire detachment and all-in-block connections are formed.

Edge milling - Profiling. It is used to produce hand-drawn products (cornices, plinths, platbands, staps, etc.), as well as when designing interiors, the manufacture of furniture and various sodes. These elements in addition to functional carry and decorative load.

Milling of complex surfaces and contours When creating original furniture, exclusive interiors and the manufacture of products for various purposes applying for artistic sophistication. At the same time, templates are widely used, allowing you to copy repeated complex forms with great accuracy, making them almost completely identical.

Milling special elementscarrying a purely functional load. These are grooves and holes for sheds and locks, spikes, etc. With serial production, these elements are performed by specialized milling mills (additive, etc.). But in everyday life with them, universal hand mills are performed.

The hand mill is treated with a special cutter consisting of a cylindrical shank (more often there are colts under shanks with a diameter of 6, 8 or 12 mm) and the working part with the cutting edge. There is a huge amount of mills differing in size and design, form cutting edge, material. For soft wood breeds, cutters with instrumental high-speed steel knives are used, for solid materials (oak, ash, beech, aluminum, etc.) - from solid alloys.

To give the product a certain form, it is necessary to ensure accurate positioning of the cutter relative to the workpiece in the three coordinates. The position of the tool in a vertical position is provided by the dive mechanism, which moves the engine with a cutter along the vertical guide of the beds and stops it in the desired position in height.

Positioning in the horizontal plane can be provided by various paths. With the help of the guide bearing, fixed on the cutter, or the guide sleeve, which is fastened to the support surface of the freesome, as well as many special devices supplied with the milling and sold independently or manufactured by their own hands. There are a large number of manuals and recommendations that describe how to work with a milling machine, using these devices, read one of them.

When using a cutter with a guide bearing, the latter rolls over the edge of the processed part or the template below or above the workpiece, thus providing a certain distance between the cutter and the part. Cutters having a guide bearing and processing edges of parts are called edge. They are used only to process the edges of the blanks. There are different shapes of the edges.

Profile cutters (A and B) give the edge various curly profiles carrying a decorative load.

Cone cutter (B) Designed for mowing edges at an angle of 45 °.

Cautical cutter (d) Used to round the edges. It forms a profile in a quarter of the circle and is of different sizes with a radius of a circle of 3-16 mm.

Disk cutter (e) cuts horizontal grooves in the workpiece of various depths and widths.

Fold milling (e) Used for milling quarters performing the most different function.

Hanging cutter (g) Used to receive quilt on the edge. It is used to give the edges of decorative.

Cutters without guide bearings, called groove, are designed to handle the workpiece anywhere. Their application requires the use of fixtures (read the branded and homemade devices for a manual milling mill), providing the positioning of the cutter in the horizontal plane.

Rectangular grocery cutter (a) is perhaps the most used. It is used to milling grooves providing parts compound - both in-point and detachable.

Hanging cutter (b) Creates in the harvesting semicircular grooves or grooves, performing often decorative functions.

V-shaped mill (B) forms grooves with walls located at an angle of 45 °. If you introduce a milling cutter to a greater depth, the grooves with vertical edges will be. With the help of the V-shaped cutter, letters and various decorations are cut out.

Milling cutter "Lastochkin Tail" (d) Usually used in furniture production when equipped with open and hidden thickening connections.

Fastening cutters in the Canggie Mill

Installing the cutter can be carried out both in the engine, taken out of the bed and in it. It is carried out in such a sequence:

The mill is laid by the side.
The spindle is fixed from the gross - depending on the construct of the milling, a wrench or a button-retainer.
It is released (if she is screwed onto the collet) or the clamping nut Canggi is confront.
The clamping collet is inserted by a cutter cutter until it stops or at least 20 mm.
Using a wrench (if the spindle is fixed by a wrench, then the second key will be required) the clamping nut is dragged, the spindle is cleared.

In the absence of cutters in the collet, the clamping nut should be delayed. This may damage the collet.

Work with the mill involves the implementation of various commissioning operations. One of the mains is to set the depth of milling. It may differ slightly in the milling mills of different models, but its principle for all submersible milling mills remains the same. The essence of the setting is that when the cutter of the required depth is achieved, the dive limiter rests on the revolving stepper focus and eliminates the further immersion of the cutter.

Installation of milling depth: 1 - revolving stop, 2 - dive depth limiter, 3 - shint lock of the depth limiter, 4 - slider of the limiter, 5 - mechanism of fine tuning, 6 - dive scale, 7 - spindle lock for milling cutters.

The operation is performed in the following order:

The milling mill is installed by the support surface on the part being processed.
Revolving emphasis, which sets the depth of the dive, is set by the lowest opposite opposite the end of the limiter.
The restrictor stop screw is released, as a result of which the latter acquires the ability to move freely in their guides.
Unlocking the mechanism of immersion (lowering) of the mill.
The engine is slowly lowered down to the turn to the cutting part.
The engine lowering mechanism is again blocked.
The depth limiter is descended until the lowest stop is touched.
The limiter slider is installed on "0" dive scale.
The limiter rises to that position in which its slider shows on the dive scale, the value of the depth of the milling that is required to be installed. This operation can be carried out lifting and lowering the limiter with hand (coarse installation) or using a fine-tuning mechanism (accurate installation).
The restrictor lock screw is clamped by fixing the slider in the set position.
The dive mechanism is unlocked, and the cutter along with the engine rises upwards.

Now, if you lower the engine with a cutter at the lowest position (to contact the end of the stop of the limiter with the shortest pin of the revolving stop), the cutter will be introduced into the workpiece on that depth, the value of which is displayed on the scale.

If the milling is made on a greater depth, it must be implemented in stages. This is done by turning the revolving stop in such a way that the depth limiter during the first passages rests at the beginning to higher stops, and only in the final passage - to the lowest emphasis.

Select the speed of rotation speed

Unlike perforators, screwdrivers and drills, the speed of rotation of the cutter relative to the high - usually over 10,000 rpm. This is explained by the fact that the faster the mill rotates, the cleaner turns out the surface of the cut. However, too high speeds are also undesirable, since the processed surface can be charred, and excessively increasing centrifugal forces - especially when using a milling cutter - lead to breakdowns. Therefore, the rotational speed of the cutter is adjusted under certain limits, depending on the material being processed and the cutter diameter.

In fact, the purity of the treated surface determines not the speed of rotation of the cutter, but the linear speed of moving the cutting edge relative to the material. The larger the diameter of the cutter, the higher the linear speed. Therefore, when using a large diameter cutter, the speed of rotation is set less. For example, for a cutter with a diameter of 10 mm, the speed must be from 20,000 rpm and above, for a cutter with a diameter of 40 mm - 10,000-12000 rpm. Specific values \u200b\u200bare set in operating instructions. The rotational speed is also caused by the hardness of the material being processed. The higher the hardness, the less there should be the number of revolutions of the cutter.

After long-term work on low revs, the milling mill should be included for several minutes at the maximum speed at idle to cool the engine.

Direction of rotation of the cutter

The direction of rotation of the cutter may be passing or counter. At the first cutting edge, the cutter moves relative to the material in the direction opposite to the movement movement (the edge is crashed into the black surface of the board and goes to the bottom of the milling groove). With the oncoming milling, the edge of the cutter moves in one direction with the movement movement (the embedding starts in the depth of the groove). It is properly the counter milling, the associated applies only in exceptional cases - when processing edges, in which the location of the fibers leads to a novel. This method is considered unsafe because it can lead to the pullout of the mill of hands.

Milling

Milling by the details of the manual milling, as a rule, is associated with the use of various devices providing the exact position of the mill. Therefore, milling techniques are discussed in the storage facility for milling, which describes not only branded devices, but also made by their own hands.

Before starting milling, the following must be completed:

Mill is fixed in Tsang.
The speed of the engine is set to this operation.
The required milling depth is configured using the immersion limiter (when operating with submersible cutters) or a certain value of the cutter is fixed with respect to the sole (when working with the edge milling cutters).
A guide bearing or ring is installed (when working with the edge milling cutters) or a different device that provides the necessary trajectory of the cutter. In this case, the optimal thickness of the cut should be set - as a rule, not more than 3 mm.

Working techniques are somewhat different depending on what mode work is performed. But in any case, the milling mill is installed on the base - the processed part or an auxiliary surface. The fuser guide element (bearing, ring, the edge of the sole or the other surface) is pressed to the guide edge (parts, rail or pattern), after which the engine is turned on and the dive of the cutter begins (if submersible mode is used), then smoothly uniform movement movement defined by the guide element.

Basic security measures when working with a milling mill

Security measures are described in detail in the operating instructions for the milling. To the most important that know is simply vital, are as follows:

Fastening the cutters and the milling of the milling bag should be carried out when the power cord is pulled out of the power outlet.
Work manual milling requires care and concentration. When milling, it is necessary to steadily stand on the legs and firmly keep the mill in hand. It is impossible to work, being tired, scattered or drunk. This can lead to the pulmonary of the milling and serious injury.
The processed item should be firmly fixed, otherwise it can cut the cutter from the place and throw with a large force and speed.
During the contact of the material with the material, you need to be especially careful to avoid the so-called reverse impact - the effect when the mill hits the material and gets a response reactive blow that can lead to the pulmonary of the milling of hands, its breakdown or injury. To the reverse strike does not happen, you need to firmly hold the milling mill in your hands, reliably press it to the base and smoothly move the tool. The thickness of the cut layer should not be too large - no more than 3 mm.
Clothes should not have chatting elements - such that can wound on the mill.
It is necessary to avoid inhalation of fine dust arising during milling. It is harmful to the lungs. Dust can be sucking with a vacuum cleaner or you can use the respirator.

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After purchasing a hand mill, a novice wizard may have questions on the technology of work. True, as a rule, the milling mill acquires people who already have an idea of \u200b\u200bwoodworking, but it happens not always. Therefore, you first need to simply get acquainted with the mill and popular cuts.

This article is for beginner masters, so let's start with the most elementary things. When buying a milling mill, you need to check the completeness, the set must be keys to tighten the nut, removable stop, bits (cutters). A good milling mill in the kit can be spare brushes, collet and additional guides with a roller, or pin.

The cutter is installed below, into the hole on the shaft and is fixed by the colangua using the clamping nut. On the molder, the stubborn area is movable, it allows you to change the depth of the cut. The depth is fixed with a special clamp with a handle, and the exact is set up using the nut on the threaded stud. By type and form, blocking clamps can be slightly different from different tools, but the principle of operation in all one.

Before starting work, you need to tighten the nut on the collet, to set the depth and clamp the lock.

Remember that with a rapid mover movement, minor chips may appear on the profile, and the load on the tool will increase significantly. The slow motion of the cutter gives a cleaner profile, but the risk of a prigar on the profile arises. That is also not good, then these places are difficult to see.

In order to make profiles on the edges of the parts, there are cutters with a support bearing.
The milling on the edges of the countertops is called the general word "Caleevka", although the profiles themselves may differ in shape.

For the passage of profiles at a distance from the edge of the part, end mills are used without bearing. In this case, it is necessary to use the guide stop, otherwise the grooves and the grooves will not work smooth. In any embodiment, the milling mill must go on some extra. For more serious work it will be useful.

Set of cutters.

The conical milling cutter is used to pass the groove V - shape. The groove or groove is done both to decorate the surface and for the assembly of parts.

The dovetail's dowy cutter is used in the processing of parts, for the manufacture of spiked connections.

Profile cutters with a support bearing are used to handle the edges of wooden parts. Such a profile is suitable for tabletops, one can say that this is one of the options for "Kaleevka".

The cutter for the passage of the internal oval on the edges of the parts, the old name "Roger". Usually such cutters are called "fungus".

To remove the sharp ribs, use a mill with sharpening under 45 *. This profile is used often and called the "chamfer".

Pictures DIYNetwork.com.

Processing of sawn timber, pockets, manufacturing of technological holes and recesses, wood carving - all this can be a device as a mill. Moreover, it can not only professional equipment, but also relatively inexpensive manual copies. But the work by a manual milling tree requires knowledge of some techniques and rules. About all this - in the article.

What is a mill and what is it needed for what

The mill is a device for processing a tree or metal. They process flat and shaped surfaces, also forms technological recesses - grooves, comb, removing under the installation of loops, etc. By the installation method, there are stationary machines (there are different types for performing different operations), and there are manual milling mills. Manual electrifresters are a universal tool that allows any operations. To change the operation, only you only need to change the nozzle - mill and / or its location on the details.

Machines are used mainly at mass production. The milling cutter is installed motionless, and the workpiece is moving - according to a certain trajectory. When working with a manual milling, the situation is the opposite - fix the workpiece, move the milling mill. When processing large volumes of the same details, it is more convenient to fix the hand mill on the horizontal surface by making something similar to the milling machine.

Homemade milling machine - horizontal plane with a hole in the midst, to which the hand mill is mounted below

There are many different types of milling machines, but for a home master or for semi-professional use more universal fit. They are installed different cutters and special devices, which allows you to perform any operations. Just for their execution requires more time and skill than on a specialized machine.

What can be done with the help of a hand mill:

Such operations are used in carpentry, in the production and assembly of furniture. Even to cut the lock or loops on the door - it can also handmade milling mill. And it will make it much faster and elegant than similar operations, but performed using a hand tool.

Preparation for work and care

To deal with the principles of working with a manual milling, it is desirable to have at least a general idea of \u200b\u200bits structure and the purpose of the part.

Building and appointment of main nodes

It consists of a manual electrophower from the housing in which the motor is hidden. From the body there is a holder where the collet is inserted. Canggi is small adapters that allow the use of cutters with shanks of different diameters. The milling cutter is inserted into the collet and delayed with the clamping bolt (on some models is fixed with the button).

Main nodes of manual milling and their purpose

Another important detail of the manual milling is a platform that connects to the housing using two rods. The platform is usually made of metal. On the bottom side of the platform there is a sliding stove. It is made of a smooth material that ensures the smoothness of the tool when it is moved across the part.

Setting the parameters of the freesomeer occurs with:

Pens and shakes setting depth of milling. Setting step - 1/10 mm.
Adjusting the number of revolutions. Changes the speed of rotation of the cutter. To begin with, it is worth trying to work on small or medium turnover - it's easier at first to lead the tool.

It is also necessary on the case there is an on / off button, there may be another blocking button. Here, briefly all the nodes. In addition, there is still quite convenient parallel emphasis. It may be simple or with the possibility of adjustment - you can slide the cutting portion to the right or left.

Care

From the factory, the equipment goes in lubricant, so in principle, no additional operations are required. But it is necessary to support equipment in cleanliness - it is necessary to consider dust more often, change with lubrication if necessary. Lubrication is needed for moving parts - guides. Liquid aerosol lubricants can be used (preferable), but conventional Litol-type consistency types can be used. But, when using thick lubricants, you will have to periodically delete them, as chips stick and dust, it becomes difficult to work. With the use of light aerosol compositions, there is practically no nagging.

In order for the sole easily slid, you can lubricate it with silicone lubrication. This is especially useful when working with templates. Then the tool literally slides, goes smoothly and without jerks.

Rotational speed

Work manual wood milling, composite, plywood, etc. Begins with the placement of basic parameters. First set the speed of rotation. It is selected depending on the selected cutter and stiffness of the material and the characteristics of the millingrer, so that accurate recommendations must be signed in the instruction manual.

Approximate processing speed when using different cutters

Filling cutter

Next is installed milling cutter. On most corporate cutters, there are tags for which you can navigate. If they are not, then the minimum must be clamped at least 3/4 of the shank length (cylindrical part). Insert the cutter into the required depth (if necessary, after installing the collet - the adapter cartridge for different diameters of the cutter), fasten the shaft, tighten the wheel key until it stops (but do not drag).

Work manual wood milling and other materials begins with milling cutters

If the model is simple, two keys are needed. They do not provide a shaft blocking mechanism, the second key will need to hold it. In the middle class devices there is a lock button. Pulling it, tighten the carkin key. In expensive models besides blocking, there is a ratchet in which you can navigate.

Setting the depth of milling

Each model of a manual freresser has a certain departure - this is the maximum depth to which this unit is able to process the material. The depth of milling is not always required to be maximum, then its adjustment is required. Even if it is necessary to mill to a greater depth, so as not to load too much and the unit, you can smash it on several levels. For this there is a revolving emphasis. This is a small disk under the barbell with a certain number of stops of different heights - legs. The number of legs - from three to seven, and more - does not mean better. It is much more convenient if there is the possibility of adjusting the height of each leg. This shows the ability of the equipment. To secure the revolving stop in the desired position there is a retainer, which is usually made in the form of a checkbox.

The rewarding depth of milling on a manual milling happens in several stages:

The tool put on a flat surface, free the clamps, press the cutter to overflowing into the surface.
Release the revolving focus, reloading its lock.

Choose the leg of the revolving stop

Depending on which milling depth is needed, the leg of the revolving stop is chosen. The disc with the legs rotate to the desired position.
The screw is not fixed, but hold the bar with a finger, move the movable pointer so that it coincides with zero (in the photo above).
The bar is raised to the milling depth, after which the record of the revolving stop is lowered (in the photo below).

Exhibit depth on scale

Now, when installing on the workpiece and jamming on the top, the cutter will enter the detail to the exhibited distance.

Now it will be a blank for the desired depth

On good freshers there is a wheel of accurate adjustment of the depth of milling. It allows you not to knock down the settings (you do not need to repeat the entire operation) Correct the depth, albeit in small limits (in the photo above it is a green wheel).

Cutters for manual milling

Cutters are a cutting tool that processes and forms the surface. They consist of a cylindrical part, which is clamped by the colors in the hardener of the unit, and the cutting part. The cylindrical part may be different diameter. Choose such a collet under which there is in your device. The shape and location of the knife of the cutting part defines the type that the wood receives after processing. In some mills (for edges) there is a persisting roller. It sets the distance from the cutting surface to the material being processed.

The work of the tree with a manual milling tree involves the presence of a certain amount of cutters. This is a small part of what exists

Make cutters from different metals and alloys. For handling soft wood - pine, spruce, etc. - Use ordinary nozzles (HSS), for hard rocks - oak, beech and others - from hard alloys (HM).

Each milling cutter has a certain resource and the maximum speed on which normal operation is provided with minimal beating. Excess recommended speed is not worth it - this can cause a mill breakdown. It also makes no sense to sharpen the mill, if it fastened. Do it on special equipment (worth about $ 1000), where you can set the desired sharpening angle. Manually nothing will succeed. So that focused easier (and cheaper) replace, as they are relatively few.

Popular species

There are some types of pumps for the millingrer, which are used most often.

There are malls simple, formed from a single piece of metal, there are typical. Sets have a shank - the basis, some set of different cutting planes, a set of washers of different thickness. From these parts you can independently form the required relief.

A set cutter - a set of several cutting surfaces and washers, from which you can make a mill of the required form

These are the most popular types of cutters, but in fact there are a lot of them. In addition to different diameters of shanks, there are various diameters of cutting surfaces, their height, the arrangement of knives relative to each other, etc. In general, for milling with their own hands, it is usually required about the five most chassis cutters. They are usually present constantly, and the rest are purchased for specific types of work.

Principles of working with manual milling

The eletcroter is a rather dangerous thing - rotating at high speed sharp cutting parts can cause serious injuries, and the chips flying from under the instrument too. And at least on most models there is a protective flap, reflecting the main stream of chips, the safety glasses will not interfere. So the work with a manual milling wood requires attention and concentration.

One of the models - with a connected vacuum cleaner to remove chip

General requirements

The work with a manual milling tree will be easier and more enjoyable, the product will turn out normal, if you perform some conditions:

Not such complex requirements, but their implementation is a guarantee of good work and safety. Well, the main requirement - the milling mill must be carried out smoothly, without jerks, jerks. If a strong beating is felt - change the frequency of rotation. Most often it must be reduced, but in general it is necessary to focus on the manufacturer's recommendation (there is on the package).

Edge Processing - Working with Template

Processing the edge of the ordinary board is easier and faster on the flight, but if it is not, the manual milling mill will also cope, that's just takes it more time. There are two ways: without a template and with a template. If this is the first experience with a milling mill - it is better to use a template. When processing the edges of the boards, straight edge cutters are needed, and most likely two - with the bearing at the beginning and at the end of the cutting part (in the photo).

For the edge processing - make a smooth surface

As a template, you can use the already processed board or, for example, the construction rule. The length of the template must be slightly larger than the length of the workpiece - on 5-6 radius cutters on each side. This will give the opportunity to avoid the "Viska" cutters into the material at the beginning and at the end. One important point: the horizontal plane (perpendicular to the treated) must be smooth. In any case, its curvature should not be greater than the gap between the bearing and the cutting part, otherwise the cutter will touch the pattern, and this is very bad - it becomes non-ideal and inflicted irregularities will appear on other copies.

If the width of the part no longer cutting edges

The cutting part of the milling mills there are different lengths, but the more cutting part, the more difficult it is to work - more efforts have to be applied to hold the aggregate. Therefore, it is easier to start with a middle cutter. The processing order of the edge with a mill (with a template) is:

The template is installed so that it sets the required smooth surface - retreating the desired distance from the edge.
The workpiece with the template is securely attached to the table or any other horizontal surface.
Install the mill with a roller in the middle part. It is exhibited so that the roller rolling on the pattern, and the cutting part is the detail. For this, the milling is installed on the fixed blank with the template, they put the mill disconnected from the network, adjust the position of the nozzle, clamp it.
Install the mill into the working position - they lower the case, clamp.
Include a manual milling machine, lead them according to the template. The speed of movement is determined by the depth of processing. You all feel yourself.
And how to drive a mill? Pull or push? It depends on which side you are standing. If the workpiece on the left - pushing, if on the right - pull. You can also navigate on the departure of chips - it must fly forward.

On this, actually everything. After the passage finished, evaluate the result, remove the clamps.

This, by the way, is still a way to take a quarter along the edge of the workpiece or in some part of it. To remove a quarter, exhibit the cutting part so that the processing is a given depth.

Filled a quarter on the furniture facade

Changes the cutter on the curly (gallop) and shifting the template or using the stopping stop, you can apply a longitudinal drawing on the workpiece (in the photo below).

The principle of working with a manual milling

In general, this milling technique is quite comfortable. For the first steps in the woodworking - this is the best way to "fill the hand", then you can even raise the edges even without guides.

Smooth edge without guide requires experience

Width more cutting length

What if the thickness of the workpiece is not longer than the cutting part of the cutter? In this case, the work of a manual milling tree continues:

Now the edge is completely processed on the one hand. If necessary - repeat with the second side. In general, in order to master the work with a manual milling tree, a few "draft" blanks will be required. Choose from those that it is not sorry to throw away - at the first pores of the shoals will be much, then gradually learn.

Getting a figured and curvilinear edge

If you need not even, but a rounded or any other shape of the edge, you have to look at the state of the existing edge. If the billet is more or less smooth, take the necessary edge milling, install it and process the surface, as described above. If the surface is too curve, it is first adjusted to a normal state, and then milling.

Rounded edge

It is necessary, since the roller of the bearing is rolled over the surface and if there are flaws, they will be copied. Therefore, act consistently - first drop, then - give the curvature.

If the nudna is generally a curvilinear surface - the pattern is cut out. The drawing is applied on the phaneer with a thickness of 8-12 mm, first it can be filled with an electrolybiz, because the edge to bring to the perfect state by the milling line.

On the plywood draw the desired drawing

In this case, too, we will have to work with a mill, but so far without a template. When the surface is perfect, the template is fixed to the workpiece and further described above the work with a manual milling tree. Only one point: if you need to shoot in some places you will need a large amount of material, it is better to do the jigsaw, for example. Otherwise, the milling cutter fastens.

Video lessons for working with manual milling

When installing doors, it is necessary to cut the loops, how to do with the help of a mill - in the next video (there is also about how to make a groove, for example, under the installation of a good).

How to make a homemade milling machine from laminate samples (can be plywood) and how to make a thickening connection for boxes (tables, for example) - in the next video

The work by a manual wood milling line is well shown in the following video, but it is in English. Even if you do not know English, do not regret the time, look. Many operations will become clearer.

If only you do not make a big series of identical details, almost always the settings of the milling ager have to be engaged longer than the milling itself. Fortunately, over many years of work, we have developed several techniques that allow you to speed up most of the settings.

Add the lining to the longitudinal focus

1. When milling profiles on the edge, for example, around the perimeter of the door shown on top photothe cutter often removes the material so that the profile edge ceases to lay down to the longitudinal flow of the milling table. In such cases, you need to put forward the back of the stop (we glue a double-sided tack with a lining of fine paper-layered plastic) to create a support surface for the workpiece behind the cutter. If this is not done, the step is formed at the end of the passage on the edge when the workpiece is no longer based on the front of the stop.

2. If the cutter is inserted into the collet to the end, you will not be able to secure it, and the mill can fly from the collet during operation. Some models of milling mills are hard to hold the mill and at the same time tighten the chicken nut. To facilitate the task, pull the rubber ring on the shank cutter, which will hold it in place until you delay the nut. You can also lower a small piece of rubber in the collet so that the cutter does not touch the bottom. When you delay the nut, the rubber will be squeaked under the pressure of the shank. (Rubber rings-gaskets are sold in plumbing stores.)

Frewell no more than you need

3. Rights removal after gluing to plywood or MDF with wooden edge linings - the most suitable work for the edge mill (trimmer) with a small sole and low location of the center of gravity. But even if you use a medium-sized milling mill, adjust the departure of the copying cutter so that its bearing is slightly lower than the protrusion that you want to delete. Then, if you accidentally tilt the mill, the facial veneer plywood will not be damaged. In addition, when removing the sinks, we recommend using the method of so-called associated milling (in this case to the right) to avoid chipping on the glued overlaps.

Gradual deepening saves efforts and improves quality

4. If possible, before milling, always remove the extra material from the blanks using a saw machine or a ribbon saw. Make the cutting profile on the workpiece so as not to sink too much. This will help save time, resource cutters and electric motor, as well as reduce the amount of dust and chips with profile milling edges, the manufacture of key connections and other works when you need to remove a significant part of the material.

5. To get a smooth surface, always leave a small allowance (no more than 0.5 mm) for the last final passage that allows you to get rid of aids and row. Before starting work on the milling table, stir the strip of painting tape on the edge of the workpiece or longitudinal focus, as shown on photo(or two layers, if the tape is very thin). Before the last passage, remove the scotch to remove the minimum thickness layer. When milling, manually attach two or three business cards to the sole of the mill and perform the main part of the work, and then remove them before the final passage.

6. Instead of pulling out the mill after each passage, install it accurately depart from the very beginning and put on the milling table of gaskets from b-millimeter organita or plywood, consolidating them with double-sided scotch. Make a cutout cut in each of them. Delete one laying after each passage. This method is especially useful when adjusting the departure of the cutter is uncomfortable, and by taking the setting once, you lock it.

Exceptional accuracy without the use of the line

7. Use the calibrated measuring bars and brass plates, usually sold by sets (from 3 to 13 mm thick) to accurately adjust the departure of the cutter. For example, to make a counterproin compound on the blanks with a thickness of 18 mm, set the distance from the cutters cutters, forming the spool to the sole of the mill or surface of the milling table, as shown in the photo, using a 6 mm dimensional bar. After that, feed the comb for this tongue.

8. When making an accurate setting, especially a set of two mills, for example, to manufacture a counterproof connection or ridge and tower, save the cutting of the workpiece with the profile for each cutter to quickly adjust them in further work.

9. Making Open connections "Swallow tail" with a cream pattern, to accurately set up the cutting cutter, use the blanks themselves. At first, the bilateral scotch is attached to the pruning blank plate, having put forward for about 25 mm for about 25 mm. Then, fixing in the collet mill, put the milling mill on the template. Lower the milling time until it concerns trimming, and fix the departure. If you want the spikes and "swallow tails" slightly over the surface for further grinding, simply slide the milling mill, turning the depth regulator screw to one eighth part of the turnover, and fix the setting.

10. When you need to make recesses for loops, open the loops and put the milling mill on one card each loop. Then lower the cutter so that it touches the workbench, and the depth of milling will be configured exactly in the thickness of these loops.

Neat tuning on the line scale

11. The gap between the cutter and the edge of the hole in the sole is often interferes with correctly adjust the depth of milling with the steel line set on the end. In these cases, use a ruler with a vertical scale along the end.

12. Many modern milling mills are supplied with a centering cone, allowing you to establish coaxial soles and spindle. The accurate centering of the cutter is important for the manufacture of connections in devices using a copier sleeve, such as "swallow tails" or direct drawers. When the copy sleeve is not centered, the connections will not be flawless. If the milling mill is not equipped with a centering cone, it can be purchased separately for a small price.

13. To align the longitudinal stop of the milling table with the cutter bearing or a specific point of its profile, set it approximately in the right place, and then fix one of its ends. Clicking the steel line to both halves of the stop, turn the free end until the ruler touches the desired point. Fix the second end of the stop when both halves are located on the same line with a point on the cutter.

14. Customizing the height of the cutter over the milling table using the adjusting handle shown on photo,make a pencil on the table a label opposite the zero division of the scale. Now, lifting or dropping a mill, you will definitely know her initial position, so as not to jump it and not return to the same values.