Why waves on the sea? How do waves appear? How the wave is formed into the sea.

Many natural phenomena person perceives as well as well. We are accustomed to the summer, autumn, winter, rain, snow, waves and do not think about the reasons. And yet, why waves are formed in the sea? Why does ripple appear on the water alternate even in full calm?

Origin

There are several theories explaining the emergence of marine and ocean waves. They are formed due to:

• atmospheric pressure drops;
• tides and tides;
• underwater earthquakes and volcanic eruptions;
• vessel movements;
• strong wind.

To understand the formation mechanism, it is necessary to remember that water is worried and fluctuates forced - as a result of physical impact. Pebble, boat, hand that touched it, leads a liquid mass in motion, creating fluctuations in different power.

Specifications

Waves are also the movement of water on the surface of the reservoir. They are the result of the adhesion of air and liquid particles. At first, the water-air symbiosis causes ripples on the surface of the water, and then makes the water strata move.

Size, length and strength change, depending on the strength of the wind. During the storm, powerful pillars rise 8 meters and stretched in length almost a quarter kilometer.

Sometimes the force is so destructive that it feels on the coastal strip, pulls off the umbrellas, shower and other beach buildings with the root, demolides everything in their path. And this is despite the fact that fluctuations are formed several thousand kilometers from the shore.

All waves can be divided into 2 categories:

• wind;
• standing.

Winds

Winds, as follows from the name, are formed under the influence of wind. His gusts rush along the tangent, nervous water and forcing it to move. The wind pushes a liquid mass ahead, but the strength of gravity slows down the process, pushing it back. Movements on the surface resulting from the influence of the two forces resemble lifts and descents. Their peaks are called ridges, and bases - soles.

Finding out why the wave is formed on the sea, the question remains open, why do they make oscillatory movements up and down? Explanation Simple - the impermanence of the wind. He is rapidly and impulses, it subsides. The height of the ridge, the frequency of oscillations directly depend on its strength and power. If the speed of movement and the power of air flow exceeds the indicators of the norm, rises the storm. Another reason is renewable energy.

Renewable energy

Sometimes the sea is full of calm, and the waves are formed. Why? Oceanographers and geographers explain this phenomenon renewable energy. Water oscillations are its source and ways to maintain the potential for a long time.

In life it looks like this. The wind creates a certain amount of oscillations in the reservoir. The energy of these oscillations is enough for several hours. During this time, liquid education overcomes the distance in tens of kilometers and "mooring" in areas where sunny, there is no wind, and the reservoir is calm.

Standing

Standard or single waves arise as a result of jolts on the oceanic day, characteristic of earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, and also due to a sharp change in atmospheric pressure.

This phenomenon is called sewer, which is translated from French how to "swing". Sissets are characteristic of bays, bays and some seas, represents danger to beaches, facilities in the coastal strip, moored at the pier of ships and people on board.

Constructive and destructive

Education, overcoming long distances and at the same time without changing shape and not losing energy, hit the beach and are broken. At the same time, each rush affects the coastal strip in different ways. If it is lays the coast, it is classified as constructive.

The destructive routing of water is collapsed with its power on the coast, destroying it, gradually washing the sand and pebbles from the beach strip. In this case, the natural phenomenon is classified as destructive.

Destruction is of different destructive power. Sometimes it is so powerful that it collapsing the slopes, splits the rocks, divides the rocks. Over time, even the hardest rocks are destroyed. America's largest lighthouse was built at Cape Gatteras in 1870. Since then, the sea has advanced by almost 430 meters deep into the coast, washed away the coastal stripes and beaches. This is just one of the dozen facts.

Tsunami is a kind of destructive aquatic formations characterized by a large destructive force. The speed of their movement reaches 1000 km / h. This is higher than that of the reactive aircraft. At the depth, the height of the ridge of the tsunami is small, but they reduce the speed near the coast, but increase the height of up to 20 meters.

In 80% of cases, tsunami are a consequence of underwater earthquakes, in the remaining 20% \u200b\u200b- volcanic eruptions and landslides. Due to the earthquakes, the bottom is shifted by vertical: one part is lowered, and the second - in parallel rises. On the surface of the reservoir, fluctuations in different power are formed.

Anomalous killers

They are also known as wandering, monsters, anomalous and more characteristic of the oceans.

Another 30-40 years ago, the stories of sailors about the abnormal oscillations of the water were considered to be disadvantaged, because in the existing scientific theories and calculations of the evidence of eyewitnesses did not fit. The height of 21 meters was considered the utmost for oceanic and marine oscillations.

It seems to be a banal question, but there are some interesting nuances.

Waves arise for various reasons: due to wind, the passage of the vessel, falling into the water of any object, attraction of the moon, earthquake, eruption of an underwater volcano or a landslide gathering. But if they are caused by the passage of the vessel or the fall in the subject, the attraction of the moon and the sun contributes to the appearance of tidal waves, and the earthquake may cause tsunami, more complicated with the wind.

That's how it happens ...

Here it is a matter of air movement - there are random whirlwinds, small at the surface and large in the distance. When they pass over the reservoir, the pressure decreases, and convexity is formed on its surface. The wind begins to press the stronger on its winding slope, which leads to the difference of pressures, and because of it, the movement of the air begins to "pump out" the energy in the wave. At the same time, the speed of the wave is proportional to its length, that is, the larger length, the greater the speed. The height of the wave and its length is connected. Therefore, when the wind accelerates the wave, its speed increases, therefore, the length and height increases. True, the closer the speed of the wave to the wind speed, the less energy can wind the wave. If their speed is equal, the wind does not transmit energy at all.

Now we'll figure it out how the waves are formed. For their formation, two physical mechanisms are responsible: the strength of gravity and the strength of the surface tension. When part of the water rises, the strength of gravity tries to return it back, and when it sinks, it huses the neighboring particles, which are also trying to return back. The strength of the surface tension is still, in which direction the surface of the liquid is flashed, it acts in any case. As a result, the particle of water fluctuates like a pendulum. From them "infected" adjacent areas, and a surface running wave arises.

The energy of the waves is well transmitted only in the direction, in which particles can freely move. On the surface it is easier to do than at the depth. All because the air does not create any restrictions, while at the depth of the particle of water are in very constrained conditions. The reason is bad compressibility. Because of her, waves can move over long distances on the surface, but very quickly fade deep.

It is important that during the wave particles of the liquid almost do not move. At the big depth, the trajectory of their movement has the form of a circle, on a small - elongated horizontal ellipse. Thanks to this, ships in the harbor, birds or pieces of wood are swinging on the waves, in fact without moving over the surface.

The particular type of surface waves is the so-called killer waves - giant single waves. Why they arise, so so far and unknown. They are rarely found in nature, and they cannot be modeled in laboratory conditions. Nevertheless, most scientists believe that the killer waves are formed due to a sharp decrease in pressure over the surface of the sea or the ocean. But more thoroughly studying them in front.

Here we are detailed

The wind itself can be seen on the weather forecast maps: these are low pressure zones. The more their concentration, the stronger the wind will be. Small (capillary) waves are initially moving in the direction in which the wind blows.

The stronger the wind blows longer, the greater its impact on the surface of the water. Over time, the waves begin to increase in size.

The wind has a greater impact on small waves than on a calm surface of the water.

The size of the wave depends on the wind speed, which forms it. The wind blowing at some constant speed will be able to generate a wave of comparable sizes. And as soon as the wave acquires the dimensions that the wind can lay in it, it becomes "fully formed."

Generated waves have different velocities and wave periods. (In more detail in the article), the waves with a large period are moving faster and overcome long distances than their slower beans. As the wind source is given (distribution), the waves form the lines of the coils that are inevitably rolling ashore. Most likely, you are familiar with the concept of setting waves!

Waves on which no longer affect the wind is called bottom waves (Ground Swell)? This is exactly what surfers are hunted!

What affects the size of Svetla?

There are three main factors affecting the size of the waves in the open sea.
Wind speed "What she is more, the larger the wave will be."
Duration of wind - Similar to the previous one.
Fetch (Wind coating area) - Again, the greater the area of \u200b\u200bthe coating, the larger the wave is formed.

As soon as the impact of wind on them stops, the waves begin to lose their energy. They will move until the heads of the seabed or other obstacles on their paths (a major island for example) will not heat all the energy.

There are several factors affecting the size of the wave in a particular place. Among them:

Direction Svella - Does it allow to get Svetla to the place we need?
Ocean bottom - Svetl, moving from the depths of the ocean on the cliffs underwater ridge, forms large waves with barrels inside. The shallow protrusion on the contrary - will slow down the waves and make them lose energy.
Tidal cycle - Some sports are completely dependent on it.

Find out how the best waves appear.

Wave (Wave, Surge, SEA) - forms due to the grip of particles of liquid and air; Sliding on the smooth surface of the water, at first the air creates ripples, and then, acts on its inclined surface, develops gradually excitement of the aqueous mass. Experience showed that water particles do not have a progressive movement; Moves only vertically. Seasy waves refer to the movement of water on the sea surface, occurring at certain intervals.

The highest point of the waves is called comb or a vertex wave, and the lower point - sole. Height waves are called the distance from the crest to its sole, and length This is the distance between two ridges or soles. Time between two ridges or soles is called period Waves.

The main causes of occurrence

On average, the height of the wave during the storm in the ocean reaches 7-8 meters, it can usually stretch in length - up to 150 meters and up to 250 meters during a storm.

In most cases, sea waves are formed by the wind. The sizes of such waves depend on the strength of the wind, as well as its duration and "overclocking" - the length of the path on which the wind acts on the water surface. Sometimes the waves that fall on the coast can be born thousand and kilometers from the coast. But there are still many other factors for the occurrence of sea waves: these are puzzling forces of the moon, the sun, the oscillations of atmospheric pressure, eruption of underwater volcanoes, underwater earthquakes, the movement of marine ships.

Waves observed in other aquatic spaces may be two births:

1) Winds, created by the wind, taking the cessation of the wind, the established nature and called established waves, or asking; Wind waves are created as a result of the impact of wind (movement of the air masses) on the surface of the water, that is, the discharge. The reason for the oscillatory movements of the waves becomes easily understandable if we notice the impact of the same wind on the surface of the wheat field. The impermanence of wind streams is well noticeable, which create waves.

2) Waves of movement, or standing waves, are formed as a result of strong shocks at the bottom of earthquakes or excited, for example, a sharp change in the pressure of the atmosphere. These waves also wear the name of single waves.

In contrast to tides, tides and flows of the wave in do not move the mass of water. Waves go, but water remains in place. The boat that swings on the waves does not float together with the wave. It will be able to move a little by inclined, only due to the strength of earthly gravity. Water particles in the wave are moving along the rings. The farther these rings from the surface, the less they become and, finally, disappear at all. Being in the submarine at a depth of 70-80 meters, you do not feel the action of sea waves even with the most powerful storm on the surface.

Types of sea waves

Waves can pass huge distances without changing the forms and practically without losing energy, long after the wind caused them subsides. Sewing about the shore, sea waves release the ortharch energy accumulated during the journey. The strength of continuously broken waves changes in different ways the shape of the coast. Bottled and rolling waves are laundered and therefore called constructive. Waves that embrace ashore gradually destroy it and wash off the beaches protecting it. Therefore, they are called destructive.

Low, wide, rounded waves far from the shore are called asbew. Waves force water particles to describe mugs, rings. The size of the rings decreases with depth. As the wave approaches, the water particles in it describe all the more flattened ovals. Approaching the shore, sea waves can no longer close their ovals, and the wave is broken. In shallow water, water particles can no longer close their ovals, and the wave is broken. Capes are formed from a more solid rock and are destroyed slower than the neighboring segments of the coast. Cool, high sea waves pushing rocky rocks at the base, forming a niche. Rocks are sometimes collapsed. The terrace smoothed by the waves is all that remains from the rocks destroyed by the sea. Sometimes water rises along the vertical cracks in the rock to the top and breaks into the surface, forming a funnel. The destructive power of the waves expands cracks in a rock, forming a cave. When the waves are applied to the rock from two sides, until they connect to the break, arches are formed. When the top of the arches falls into the sea, the stone poles remain. Their bases are fell, and the pillars are collapsed, forming boulders. Pebbles and sand on the beach is the result of erosion.

Destructive waves gradually blur the shore and carry sand and pebbles with sea beaches. Having collapsed the whole severity of its water and washed material on the slopes and cliffs, the waves destroy their surface. They push water and air into each crack, every crevice, often with an explosion energy, gradually separating and relaxing the rocks. Walkers of the cliffs are used for further destruction. Even the hardest cliffs are gradually destroyed, and the drying is changed under the action of waves. Waves can destroy the seashore with amazing speed. In the county of Lincolnshire, in England, erosion (destruction) comes at a speed of 2 m per year. Since 1870, when the largest lighthouse on Cape Gatteras was built in the US, the sea washed off the beaches at 426 m deep into the depths of the coast.

Tsunami

Tsunami - These are the waves of a huge devastating force. They are caused by submarine earthquakes or volcanic eruptions and can cross oceans faster than the jet aircraft: 1000 km / h. In deep waters, they can be lower than one meter, but, approaching the shore, slow down their running and grow up to 30-50 meters, before you hit, flooding the shore and eats everything in our way. 90% of all registered tsunami was noted in the Pacific Ocean.

The most common causes.

About 80% of cases of nucleation tsunami are underwater earthquakes. With an earthquake under water, the bottom shift occurs vertically: part of the bottom is lowered, and the part is raised. On the surface of the water, oscillatory movements vertically occur, striving to return to the initial level, the average level of the sea, and generates a series of waves. Not every submarine earthquake is accompanied by a tsunami. Tsunamic (that is, the tsunami-generating wave) is usually an earthquake with a shallow-located hearth. The problem of recognition of the tsunamigenicity of the earthquake has not yet been solved, and the warning service is focused on the earthquake magnet. The strongest tsunami is generated in subduction zones. Also, it is necessary that the underwater push entered into a resonance with wave oscillations.

Landslides. The tsunami of this type arise more often than they were assessed in the twentieth century (about 7% of all tsunami). Often, the earthquake causes a landslide and he also generates a wave. On July 9, 1958, as a result of an earthquake on Alaska, a landslide arose in the lithuania bay. The mass of ice and earthly breeds collapsed from a height of 1,100 m. A wave was formed, which was formed on the opposite shore of the bay of height of more than 524 m. This kind of cases are quite rare and are not considered as a reference. But much more often occurs underwater landslides in rivers delta, which are no less dangerous. The earthquake may be the cause of the landslide and, for example, in Indonesia, where the shelf sedimentation is very large, landslide tsunami is especially dangerous, since it happens regularly, causing local waves with a height of more than 20 meters.

Volcanic eruptions Approximately 5% of all tsunami cases. Large underwater eruptions have the same effect as an earthquake. With strong volcanic explosions, not only the waves from the explosion are formed, but the water also fills the cavities from the erupted material or even the caldera, resulting in a long wave. The classic example is the tsunami formed after Krakatau eruption in 1883. Huge tsunami from Volcano Krakatau was observed in the harbors around the world and destroyed more than 5,000 ships, about 36,000 people died.

Signs of the appearance of the tsunami.

• Sudden fast Water waste from the shore at a considerable distance and drying of the bottom. The further the sea retreated, the higher the tsunami waves can be. People who are on the shore and do not know about dangermay remain out of curiosity or to collect fish and seashells. In this case, it is necessary to leave the shore as soon as possible and retire from it to the maximum distance - such a rule should be guided by, for example, in Japan, on the Indonesia's Indonesian coast, Kamchatka. In the case of televisers, the wave is usually suitable without digging water.
• Earthquake. The epicenter of the earthquake is usually in the ocean. On the shore, the earthquake is usually much weaker, and often it is not at all. In the cunning regions there is a rule that if an earthquake is felt, then it is better to go further from the shore and at the same time climbing the hill, thus prepare for the arrival of the wave.
• Unusual drift Ice and other floating objects, the formation of cracks in surpass.
• Huge thumbs At the edges of fixed ice and reefs, the formation of crowding, flows.

Waves killers

Waves killers (Wandering Waves, Monsters Waves, Freak Wave - Anomalous Wave) - Giant waves arising in the ocean, with a height of more than 30 meters, possess unusual behavior for sea waves.

Some more than 10-15 years ago, scientists believed the stories of sailors about the giant killer waves, which arise from nowhere and drown the ships, just the sea folklore. Long time wandering waves It was considered invention, since they did not fit into any mathematical models of calculations of the occurrence and their behavior at that time, because the waves with a height of more than 21 meters in the oceans of the planet Earth cannot exist.

One of the first descriptions of the monster wave refers to 1826. Her height was more than 25 meters and noticed her in the Atlantic Ocean near the Biscay Bay. No one believed this message. And in 1840, the navigator Dumron D "Jurville risked to appear at a meeting of the French geographical society and declare that he saw a 35-meter wave with his own eyes. The present raised him on laughter. But stories about huge ghost waves that appeared suddenly in the midst of the ocean even with a small The storm, and with its steepness, they looked like a wheel wall of water, became more and more.

Historical testimonies "Wave-killers"

So, in 1933, the US Navy ship "Ramapo" fell into a storm in the Pacific Ocean. Seven days the ship threw over the waves. And in the morning of February 7, the outstanding height of the shaft suddenly crumbled behind. Initially, the vessel threw into a deep abyss, and then raised almost vertically on the mountain of the foaming water. The crew, which was lucky to survive, recorded the height of the wave - 34 meters. It moved at a speed of 23 m / s, or 85 km / h. So far, this is considered the highest ever-measured wave-killer.

During World War II, in 1942, the "Queen Maria" liner was driving 16 thousand US military from New York to the UK (by the way, a record for the number of people transported on one vessel). Suddenly there was a 28-meter wave. "The upper deck was on the usual height, and suddenly - once!" She went down again, "recalled Dr. Norwal Carter, who was on board the ill-fated ship. The ship was tilted at an angle of 53 degrees - if the angle was at least three degrees more, the death would be inevitable. The story of "Queen Mary" was based on the Hollywood film "Poseidon".

However, on January 1, 1995, on the oil platform "Dropner" in the North Sea, the coast of Norway was first instrumentally fixed by a wave of 25.6 meters high, called Dropner wave. The project "Maximum Wave" allowed a new way to look at the causes of the death of ships dry cargo services, which transported containers and other important loads. Further studies were recorded in three weeks throughout the globe more than 10 single gigantic waves, whose height exceeded 20 meters. The new project was called Wave Atlas (atlas of waves), which provides for the compilation of the world map of observational waves-monsters and its subsequent processing and addition.

Causes of occurrence

There are several hypotheses about the causes of extreme waves. Many of them are deprived of common sense. The most simple explanations are built on an analysis of a simple superposition of waves of different lengths. Estimates, however, show that the likelihood of extreme waves in such a scheme is too small. Another sensoring hypothesis involves focusing the wave energy in some structures of surface flows. These structures, however, are too specific in order for the energy focusing mechanism to explain the systematic appearance of extreme waves. The most reliable explanation of the occurrence of extreme waves should be based on the internal mechanisms of nonlinear surface waves without attracting external factors.

Interestingly, such waves can be both ridges and depadies, which is confirmed by eyewitnesses. A further study attracts the effects of nonlinearity in wind waves that can lead to the formation of small wave groups (packages) or individual waves (solitons) capable of passing long distances without a significant change in their structure. Such packages were also repeatedly observed in practice. The characteristic features of such groups of waves confirming this theory is that they are moving independently of other unrest and have a small width (less than 1 km), and the height falls sharply at the edges.

However, it was not yet possible to fully clarify the nature of the abnormal waves.

NOD on the environmental education of children 6-7 years

with research elements

Topic:Where do waves come from?

Objective NOD:continue to acquaint children with air properties. Give children a concept about air traffic. To give children the opportunity to solve the problem situation in the process of research. Develop mental activity, observation. Continue to form in children cognitive interest in nature.

Methods and techniques:children's experimentation, gaming reception, conversation, modeling method, problem situation.

Material:baths with water, paint, tassels for each child. Paper ships and fan by the number of children. Diaries of observations, pencils, "pirate card", a bag with "treasures" - shells, pebbles, etc.

Node move:

Guys, let's play one very interesting game:

I will be an artist, and you paint. With the help of you, I will draw different pictures.

I decided to draw the sea. All the guys, except Sasha, stand next to each other and pull out your hands forward, you will be the sea, and Sasha shod. A very calm sea is drawn on this picture, light ripple runs on its surface. The boat sails on the sea: (children stand calmly, slightly mechanic fingers, a child depicting a boat, "sails" by children). Suddenly, not big waves appeared on the sea. Let's try to draw these waves. (Children perform with palms of hands Light wave-like movements, a child - a boat sails around the sea, as if swaying on the waves). Now I decided to draw the sea during the storm. Show me what will be the sea during a storm, which waves will be on it. Draw this picture. (Children make energetic wave-like hands with hands, and the boat sails strongly swinging on the wave).

Well, you managed to draw a real sea storm.

What do you think guys from where waves appear on the sea? (Waves appear because of the wind).

Do you want to check it really? (Yes).

Then let's briefly become scientists with you and spend a few experiments that will help us know exactly where the waves are taken from the sea. Go to our laboratory and take place behind your desktops.

(Children sit at the tables on which there are equipment for experiments).

In order to start our experiences, we need the sea. Each of you will make your own. Take the bowls and pour in them water from bottles that stand on your tables. Everybody did the same sea? (Yes).

And how, with the help of the paints that you see on your tables, will we with you with you so that your seas become different? (Add paint to water).

What then happens to water? (It will become color).

Let's try to do it. (Children paint water with different colors of paints)

Why did your water become color? (Children's assumptions. If children find it difficult to answer, then remember previously conducted experiments with water and bring them to the conclusion that water does not have colors and paint in any color).

What are your seas now? (The sea turned out different colors).

Now we have a black, red, yellow, blue sea.

Look, is there any waves on your sea now? Or sea calm, serene? (No waves. Sea is calm, serene).

And now poured quietly on your sea.

What happened to the sea? (Waves appeared).

Why did the waves appear? (Because we poured to water).

That's right. You, looked at the sea, and began to move the air above the water, and it was this air that forced the water to move, and the waves turned out.

A, let's try to test our assumption in a different way that there are waves from the air movement on the sea?

To do this, take a paper fan and enjoy them in your face. What do you feel? (Like wind blowing).

You felt the wind of the wind, that is, how the air moves. Now you can put the fan over your sea. What happened to the sea? (Waves appeared again).

Now you know exactly where the waves come from? (Yes. We made a wind by the fan and forced to move the air over the sea. Waves appeared).

What do you think this experience confirms our Swami an assumption that waves appear from the movement of air to the sea or not? (Children's responses).

You know that all scientists write their observations made during experiments. And we will draw our experiences in our diaries. (Make sketchy sketches of experience).

Guys, you have done a very serious scientific work. We must relax a bit. Let's play. Stand next to your chairs. Repeat the words of the game for me and move moving with me.

The wind blows on the square,

Shots waves in the blue sea . (hands raised up, make tilts aside);

Fish hide on the bottom -

Swim in a storm is not easy! (Sat and mimic the movement of the swimmer)

And how will the storm in the sea

The sun will rise in the sky - (get up on socks, hands stretch up to "Sun)

We are in your boat,

I'll swim in the sea at sea! (imitate the movement of the swimmer).

Look, guys, and on your tables are small, paper boats. You can go on them to any journey. Where do you want to swim? (Children's responses)

And let's swim on the island, where the pirates burned the treasure of the sea king? (Children's responses)

Then drop your ships to the sea and let's swim. (The children omit their ships to the water, each in their "sea").

But why are our ships in place? Why don't they move? What should I do, what would they swam? (Children express various assumptions: push the hand, wave a fan, so that the wind appeared).

And let's try quietly at the ship. What happened? (Ship shoved).

Why did our boat swam, what made him move? (We looked at the boat with air, and the air forced the boat)

Right. But the ship sails very quietly. So we will swim too long to our island with treasures. What to do? (Children's assumptions. During the discussion, bring the children to the assumption that you need to pour stronger to the ship).

Let's try to hide harder on the boat. What happened? (Our ship sailed faster).

What do you think the boat began to swim faster? (We poured harder on it).

So the stronger the flow of air, the faster our boat is floating.

So we sailed to our island. Let's put ships to land.

Look, guys, I have a pirate map of the island. On her, the crossmark is marked where the treasures are buried.

(Children view the card and determine the place in the group that is marked with a cross. Find treasures, pre-hidden by the teacher).

Look, but also a bag with treasures. Let's see what lies there. (Open the bag and get different seashells, marine pebbles, pearls, dried starfish, etc.)

Do you like the treasures of the sea king?

Then I suggest the next time to go on a journey around the sea and look at the guests to the marine king.